Fishing Creel



             


Sunday, October 26, 2008

Choosing The Proper Fly Fishing Leader and Tippet

Selecting the correct tapered leader and tippet for the type of fishing you are about to do is crucial. Nothing can spook fish quicker than an oversized tippet for the particular situation. On the other hand, and undersized tippet can result in the fly fisher losing their trophy before they even get a photo opportunity. We will start at the very basic of leader and tippet selection and then get more specific, and hopefully conclude with enough information so well always have the proper leader and tippet for all upcoming fishing scenarios.

What is leader and tippet

Leader and tippet is the final connection between the fly fisher and their fly. It is the section of line after the fly line and before the fly. Its purpose is to transfer energy from the fly line down to the fly, allow for natural presentation of the fly, and then be strong enough for the fly fisher to retrieve any fish that might strike at the naturally presented fly. Sounds simple enough, but this is fly fishing, and fly fishers have been around a long time. And as a group we seem to think about everything related to our sport a lot, and therefore probably have over complicated things a tad.

The leader in fly fishing is tapered. It is thicker at the butt section, then at the tippet section. It is usually divided into three sections, the butt is tied directly to the fly line, and is the longest portion of the leader, about 60%. The mid-section is next and its purpose is to taper down to the tippet without losing a lot of strength. The final section is the tippet, it is the actual section that is tied to the fly. It is the thinnest section, it needs to be strong, yet allow for a natural drift, without alarming the fish that your offering is connected to a person that will pull back.

Commercial leaders by and large achieve all this in one smooth product. Although there are still knotted leaders out there, by and large knotless leaders are the choice. It is possible to construct you own leaders and many people do. But that is the topic of another article. A fly fisher does, however need to know how to attach new tippet portion to the fly line, I prefer the double surgeons knot, but the blood knot is also popular. Learn how to tie these knots before fighting that monster! A poorly tied knot will reveal itself at the most opportune times.

X factor

Now comes the fun part. A new set of numbers to learn. Different numbers then choosing flies or fly rods. Fly fishing is overwrought with numbering systems, and unfortunately leaders and tippets you are just going to need to learn. They are sized on the X numbering system. So when you hear someone say they are switching to a 6X, you now know they are talking about their tippet. X measures the diameter of the leader minus .011. So a 6X would measure .005. A 0X would actually measure .011. One really only needs to remember the HIGER the X, the smaller the diameter. The other number worth noting the test, or breaking factor, a 4lb test leader will break when more than 4lbs pressure are applied. This is worth noting, and many a trophy are lost when violating that #.

There are many variable to consider when selecting the right X, but the two most common are the size of fish you are going after, and the size of fly you are using when going after them. A quick guide is as follows:

X Fly
0 2-6
1 4-8
2 4-10
3 6-12
4 6-14
5 12-16
6 16-20
7 20-24
8 24 and smaller

Length

One must also think about the length of the leader itself. Leaders are sold these days anywhere from 4 feet to 15 feet. There are many things to consider when deciding on length, some are variable like wind and water clarity. Other variable are static like size of fish, current, etc.

Typically the easier it is to spook a fish, the longer the leader you will need to use. So

The industry seems to have settled on 91/2 feet as a good all-around length. For everything from trout to steelhead to tarpon. It is a good length to handle for all levels of fly casters, and it gives enough distance between the splash down of the fly line and the fly as to not spook most fish under most circumstances.

From this standard we can then begin to think of reasons we might need to adjust. Spring creeks or spring fed lakes will probably require 15 feet of leader. Whereas sinking tip lines used in spring run off will use as leaders as short as 4 feet. A weed choked largemouth bass pond will require a shorter, stouter leader, and therefore you will be able to muscle your fish away from snags. But a trout caught in a spring creek will have the advantage because your leader will easily break off due to its lightness. Windy days might require one to shorten up a bit to ease in casting. When switching from nymphing to dry flies one might need to lengthen a bit.

Summary

I hope this has clarified and not complicated things a bit. What all this means is one must carry a good assortment of tapered leaders and even more importantly tippets with them at all times. There are many times I switch sizes in the same day. If I am fighting fish deep in faster current during the day, I might go down one X factor, and then in the evening if I am dry fly fishing in shallow slow water, Ill go up two X factors.

Not having the correct tippet can handicap ones ability to land fish, either by breaking off if too small, or spooking them if too large. It is a nominal expense compared to the rest of your equipment, and a bad place to start watching that fly fishing budget. So make sure youre well stocked for every imaginable situation before you hit the water. I guarantee you at some point you will be glad you are.

Cameron Larsen is a retired commericial fly tier and fly fishing guide. He now operates The Big Y Fly Company. http://www.bigyflyco.com/flyfishinghome.html. He can be reached at info@bigyflyco.com. This article will appear in the Big Y Fly Fishing E-Zine at Http://www.bigyflyco.com/Bigyflyfishingezine.html.

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Wednesday, October 22, 2008

4 Critical Fly Fishing Tips

Good Fly Presentation

Obviously, the goal when casting a fly is to present the fly to the fish in a realistic manner. You are trying to simulate nature here. If you are going for trout in a stream, for instance, this means a drag-free float of 36 inches over a precise spot that marks the window of a feeding fish.

Also remember that the Evening Secret (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/4_Fly_Fishing_Tips.php) will swarm fish to your spot consistantly, and help you catch more fish.

Never randomly cast you have got to pick a spot and hit it. Throw tight loops that put the fly on target. One important method that can be used is to overcast the target and stop the line short while it is in the air. The fly should come back to you and fall on the water with slack in the leader.

The best trout fishermen fish with only 30 to 35 feet of line, but make up for this with accurate casting. They read waters will and put the fly in the p ay zone time after time. One of the most important thins they do is to recognize that presentation and approach are much more important than pattern.

It is different for bass. Whether a surface bug or a streamer, the offering must move past a spot where a bass is apt to hold. As the boat drifts, it is important to pick a precise time to shoot a cast to the target. Too soon or too late, and the fly wont be in the right spot. This is where the double haul form of casting becomes essential. It generates line speed and enables the caster to pick 30 or 40 feet of line off the water and shoot another without false casting.

When bassing, make your presentation, retrieve 10 to 20 feet, pick up, and cast again without the need to false cast. After each one, drop the rod type and keep the butt of the rod near your belt buckle with the tip-top of the rod pointing at the line. A simple lift will let you execute the next pickup or strike a fish.

Leader Connection

If you are a fly caster, you know that a smooth connection between the leader and fly line is important in presentation. The best way to do this is to nail-knot a six-inch piece of 25-30 pound leader material to the end of the fly line. A loop like those found on snelled hooks is then tied into the opposite end. The connecting leader must also have a loop.

Connecting the leader itself is done by passing the loop attached to the fly line through the loop on the leader; reaching through the fly line loop. Next, grab the butt section of the leader and pull the leader up through until the tippet passes the loop. Last, just pull the loops together by tugging on the fly line and the butt section in opposite directions.

Strategy

If you are every in a situation where see large brown trout in open water and hold, your best bet is to use a No. 12 Cinnamon Ant and sink it. If this doesnt work, move to the No.16 Adams fly. Still nothing? Switch to the No. 20 Black Ant. Last-ditch effort would be to use a 3X tippet and use a No. 6 nymph or streamer.

Typically the bigger trout will leave small morsels to the small guys, preferring the bigger bites that are easy to get. They are very economical feeders.

High Rider Dry Flys

If your best dry-fly patterns are failing you, it may be time to switch to spiders and variants. Many times a spider or variant will bring trout to the surface, then you can switch back to a conventional dry fly.

These spiders and variants will delicately drop to the water, usually somersaulting or jumping after touching it. Fish find this very alluring.

High riding is another attribute of these flies. When tied properly, their hackles support the hook above the waters surface, thus imitating a natural fly much more closely than the ordinary fly does.

Copyright 2005 EveningSecretFishing.com FishingLong-Time Fisherman and President of EveningSecretFishing (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/4_Fly_Fishing_Tips.php).

Feel free to use this article on your website or anywhere else - but all links and bio information must remain in tact.

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Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Night Fishing Preparation

I have to admit this subject bores me to tears. Amazingly, the simple fact is that every time I interviewed a fisherman about night fishing tips he mentioned preparation at the top of the list.

As boring as the topic can be, make it a habit to go through this section as a checklist before embarking an a night fishing excursion. I am guilty of forgetting some essentials from time to time make sure you dont!

Early morning, evening, and night fishing can be extremely fulfilling (in terms of the FUN you have and the amount of big fish you CATCH). It all depends on how prepared you are for the trip. Here are some tips to make sure that you have an amazing experience, and catch a ton of big fish.

Before I begin, I wanted to give you a chance to take your night fishing to the next level. The Evening Secret (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/Night_Fishing_Preparation.php) is the best kept secret in all of fishing.

Equipment Checks & Stuff You Must Consider

Go through each tackle box you are going to take and locate every item you need, making sure everything is in the proper place. It is important to be even more organized than normal because with night fishing you must rely on your sense of touch and sound to find what you are looking for. The more organized your gear and tackle is, the easier it is for you to find what you need. It is so frustrating to not be able to find your pliers, hooks, extra line, etc. in the dark! You must have visual knowledge of where these things are!

Make sure to bring several light sources on your trip. Have some extra flashlights and a good high candle power beam. Dont forget to bring extra batteries!

Pre-tie enough leaders and rigs to last the entire trip. This will save you tons of time, and youll be glad you took this extra step of preparation!

If you dont have a first aid kit, get one! If you have one, double check it! You are more prone to injury at night, and be prepared to handle little cuts and bruises especially if you are on a boat!

L.E.D. headlamps are very effective. If at all possible, have one on hand. The headlight helps with unhooking (and much more) they are convenient than a handheld light. There are some L.E.D. headlights that put out great light, and the batteries last a long time. Also, tying on lures can almost be impossible in total darkness without the help of a headlamp that keeps both hands free. The less time an angler spends changing lures and retying in the dark, the more time the angler will spend fishing.

Because fish caught tend to be bigger at night it would pay to step up a line class. This puts you more in control of the fight and will save time in getting the fish to the boat.

Boat Preparation (if you fish off of a boat, be prepared to be prepared!)

Night fishing from a boat can be very productive and safe if you have the right equipment, you are organized, stick to a set plan, and are confident about the area you intend to fish.

If you are going out on a boat, make sure it is in good working order! This goes without saying, but it is so important I will say it anyway You dont want to get stuck out there at night. Really, you should always check your boat no matter what time you go out fishing. However, you want to be especially sure to double, triple, and quadruple check everything if you are going on an evening trip!

Know the layout on the boat; it is important to avoid accidents. In your artificial lighting your reaction time to problems and unmanned rods bending is going to be at least double. Take some time to place your gear appropriately, and take note of where everything is before the sun goes down. Everything takes twice as long at night as it is.

Bow and stern lights are required and essential equipment on your boat and they must be lit when visibility is reduced. Striking unseen objects at night is the most often reported nighttime accident and unlit boats lead as those unseen objects. The temptation to venture forth without proper lighting is not only illegal, but also extremely foolish.

A proper and fully functional warning device (horn) becomes a vital piece of equipment in the darkness. It can be used to warn approaching craft as to your presence and also can be used to draw attention in the event of problems arising. Although not required unless off shore, visual distress signals (flares) should be on board.

An approved type fire extinguisher that is currently dated should be onboard and in a convenient and ready location. During a fire is no time to find out that the extinguisher will not function because it is out of date.

A paddle is required (for smallish boats), not optional equipment, and again should be in a convenient and accessible location.

An anchoring device with adequate line in both size and length for your boat. Deployment of the anchor should occur at the first sign of trouble to keep your boat in its present safe location. Too often then anchor is the last thing thought of and boats end up drifting into dangerous situations.

Some sort of bailing device should be on board. Pumps are useless when the battery goes dead.

A radio with weather band capability is not only recommended for day operation but is an essential piece of equipment at night. Those clouds that look harmless that you see floating over can be hiding a serious storm. The whole world could know about it but if you have no means of hearing the warnings you can be caught by natures worst.

Navigation tools, which are helpful in the daylight, become absolutely essential for safety at night. Obviously your best choice for nighttime operation would be a GPS. However, a compass would be a considerable assistant in the dark. Not only is everything different out there at night, but also things such as fog can move in with no apparent warning and without a means of determining direction you are dead in the water.

Personal floatation devices (properly fitted) for each person on board are at the top of the list and should be worn by everyone when fishing at night. Finding someone that has fallen overboard in the daytime is generally easy, but in the dark can be quite difficult. A throw able flotation device is also required equipment and should be in a convenient location.

Make sure that your boat batteries have a full charge before leaving home. In most states your boat lights have to remain on throughout the night. Running a black light, electric trolling motor, fish finders, and other gadgets can take a toll on the battery through the course of a night trip. It may be wise to carry an extra battery aboard just in case.

Insect repellent is a must. You should never leave the boat ramp without a good bottle for those trips when the bugs are biting more than the bass.

Make sure you are anchored securely and not drifting. This is critical if you are fishing close to headlands or structure where there is turbulent water. When you are settled, get a radio check and try all lights on board before it gets dark, so if there is a problem, it can be fixed before nightfall.

First aid kit, basic tools, manuals etc. are all recommended.

Check The Weather

As obvious as this one is, too many people forget to do a simple check of the forecast. Try to pick a night where the weather forecast is good. It is tough enough to move around in the dark as it is. Bad weather makes it even harder. This can really make or break your fishing trip.

Copyright 2005 EveningSecretFishing.com FishingLong-Time Fisherman and friend of EveningSecretFishing (http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/Night_Fishing_Preparation.php)

Feel free to use this article on your website or anywhere else - but all links and bio information must remain in tact.

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